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Paradise Found

March 7th, 2009 by admin

demis

I know, i know, it’s been a while. Two and a half weeks have passed and all there is to show is one lousy video of a grasshopper. This lack of documentation might suggest not a great deal has happened over the last few weeks or perhaps that i have been busy both working and enjoying the greatest waves i have ever surfed. You will all be pleased to know it’s most definitely the latter. Basically Bali rocks. Good sessions are not forgotten, take for example the picture above, can’t name the place or i’ll never be forgiven, but we’d searched around and found nothing, onshore winds messing things up, then Putu our guide brought myself billy and griffin to the top of a cliff and this is what we saw, perfect corduroy lines of swell to the horizon converging with clear blue skies, we surfed our hearts out.

One wave can make  session, a perfect, long, right hander at Geger made two hours of paddling into position against an extreme current worthwhile. I could go on, i will go on. Epic sessions at ’secret spot’ with just two of us in the water, only head and a half high clinical left handers for company. And then the real heavy day at the same spot with fat double width waves with a feasome lip looming down on those below, one wave was enough, more than that felt foolhardy.

I have written before in detail about Padang Padang surf camp  and my return here did not disappoint,  hosts Andrew and Ina as hospitable as ever. Funny  both Jenny and Erica at the camp back in December had both chosen to return too. Too many highlight, you’d be here all day! Massive appreciation to both Putu and Koyok our local guides for getting me on waves at Bingin i would never have dreamt of paddling for myself. And Steamy for fixing my board after dinging it at the aforementioned break, possibly on fellow guests steves head. For those of you with time on your side check out some pic on flickr (zo there’s on in there just for you lol)

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  • 1 Zoe Mar 24, 2009 at 4:36 pm

    It looks terrible
    I think you should come home